Chemical Exfoliation
The ever discussed wonders of chemical exfoliation, also knows as AHA’s and BHA’s; what is the difference, what do they do, & how do you know which to use, when?
What's the difference between a BHA and an AHA?
Alpha Hydroxy's (AHA)
ie: glycolic, lactic, tartaric
Used to preventing pre-mature signs of aging, fine-lines, and sun damage.
+ water soluble
+ peels away top layer of skin
+ stimulates cell turnover to lighten hyperpigmentation
+ tightens pores
+ treats sun damage
+ prevents fine lines
Beta Hydroxy's (BHA)
ie: salicylic, citric
Used to clean out pores, preventing inflammatory acne and controlling oil production.
+ goes deeper to remove dead cells/sebum unclogging pores
+ acne prevention
+ dries out excess oil
+ redness / inflammation control
+ improves collagen production
How do I use acids?
You'll notice these ingredients across a vast array of products including cleansers, toners, lotions, spot treatments, and masques. Most commonly salycylic acid (BHA) between 0.5 - 2.0%, and glycolic acid (AHA) up to 7%.
With so many products to choose from, how do we incorporate the right one? No two people have the same skin, and will react the same to specific ingredients; so its very much trial and error, good judgment, and listening to your skin! My personal approach is to use a hydrating cleanser/lotion, adding in 'actives' in the form of a nightly spot treatments and weekly masques as to not compromise healthy skin.
Rules while using acids:
Don't overdo it: don't douse your skin in product, a little goes a long way; use once daily, no more!
Don't mix actives: benzoyl peroxide, azeleic acid, retinol, are all irritating agents that when used simultaneously will disrupt your skins barrier causing inflammation; use one at a time, avoiding mixing or layering.
Don't apply to inflamed breakouts: these ingredients (in my opinion) work inherently as preventative agents. once your skin is irritated, applying an acidic compound directly will cause more harm than good. instead stick to a hydrating routine with plenty of hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, and humicants to promote speedy healing; only re-introducing acids when your spots are fully healed.
Product Recommendations:
TONERS:
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA ($30): a cult-favorite toner, use after cleansing, prior to serums, lotions, and face oils.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution ($9): on the higher end of the spectrum of glycolic toners available, leaves your skin warm and tingly; use after cleansing, prior to serums, lotions, and face oils.
SPOT TREATMENT:
M-61 Powerspot Blemish Lotion ($16): similar to Mario Badescu Drying Lotion, minus the artificial fragrance, plus soothing cucumber and aloe to counter act the irritation that can occur when using acids; my go-to spot treatment.
MASQUES:
Drunk Elephant Baby Facial ($80): this is a 25% AHA, 2% BHA (dominant in glycolic acid) along with several antioxidants and fatty omega acids acting as one of the highest grade at-home peels on the market. Used once weekly for twenty minutes; an investment in vibrant, glowing skin to say the least. *note: never use on inflamed or compromised skin
The Ordinary Peeling Solution ($7): a rival to Drunk Elephants baby facial (for a fraction of the price) includes a slightly higher dilution at 30% AHA, and 2% BHA, minus the antioxidant feature instead including hydrating glycerin and fruit extracts.
Overview:
Acids are excellent when used consistently and properly at keeping your skin healthy, glowing and vibrant! Check your label to see what % of each ingredient you're using, paying close attention to how your skin reacts at every level. Happy Investigating!
Have questions? Message me on Instagram @katherinemenna